I'm thinking of buying new blade, my current one Kreanga Powerspin has bad quality plies, after every detaching of rubber, pieces of wood are on it. Generally I like my blade speed, I like hard feel, which allows for more direct shots, flat kills. I dont like small sweet spot, also it's quite heavy, 91-94 gr depending of source info, with constantly glued rubbers it's maybe too heavy. Also, I have to play with soft rubbers, otherwise I cant reloop easily.
I heard that carbon blades have bigger sweet spot, with good control.
According to btty, this blade have quite same speed like timo boll spirit, carbon blade which has better control, and it's slightly lighter, so I'm thinking of it. But, it should be blade for professional players, which means lot of power, and maybe less control? I also heard that carbon blades are stiff, although tbs is declared like medium hardness. Is it of same hardness like Primorac Classic off-. I'd expect more hardness from pro blade.
What are advantages and disadvantages of carbon blades, comparing to wood blades? For example TBS vs Petr Korbel blade (which I also think of)?

About the splintering when removing rubbers: I don't think it's because the plies are "bad", this will happen for any blade which has a relatively soft outer veneer which is not sealed.  I've gotten into the habit of sealing all my blades with polyurethane before I first use them and have not had splintering issues at all.

First off, STOP reading the ratings that Butterfly gives you. This will only serve to confuse you more with their own spin and idea of "control, speed, and spin". You don't know what they are necessarily comparing that rating to, and you probably can't accurately compare speed and control down to a tenth. And with weight, again, don't listen to what someone else is telling you. That is, unless that someone is standing there, reading the number off on a scale for you.
I also agree with Wingspan. It's most likely not "bad quality". I've found that wood splinters almost always come up with anything short of a miracle, or a one ply blade of Hinoki or Ayous. Varnish/seal your blade. I've gotten wood splinters on my TBS fyi, so your theory would spread to that too, in which case, I DEFINITELY disagree with you.
I would definitely say that the TBS is medium feel though, so it will flex a bit more than the Kreanga Powerspin, if it's a harder blade as you say. But disregard any kind of comparison against a "pro blade" as the TBS is no such thing, as anyone is capable of holding it and possibly using it. And with that, it definitely won't be the same blade that Timo Boll used to use, Or what Butterfly claims Michael Maze uses now.
But so far from your post, it sounds like you just want a new toy to play with, as your reasons for wanting to ditch the Kreanga Powerspin are most likely not based in truth. No offense. But with that said, there's nothing wrong with a new toy right EJ's?!
But that's just my 2 cents

The thing is I'm not sure you can make generalizations like "carbon blades are faster" or "carbon blades have bigger sweet spots".  I know the marketing tells you that you can but my experience is that carbon blades differ in feel, speed, control, just as much as any other type of blade.

However, if your shoulder hurts and you suspect it's the weight (which is plausible) then that would be a case for going with a lighter setup.

Bottom line is that sadly you really can't believe the marketing hype that comes with blades.  If it were true then every blade would have magical levels of power, feel, and control. 

Now you said the speed of your blade is OK, but when I gave you one blade ALL+, with only one carbon layer in the center you said it was fast... Get Donic Waldner Carbon Senso...from Britka

Edited by ZoranV - 18 February 2010 at 16:24

I have Frienship Dynasty Hinoki carbon, light if you want to try... But many of chinese blades have only FL option...If you dont mind FL (instead of your prefered ST) I have a lot not chinese options for you...

Edited by ZoranV - 12 February 2010 at 10:17

Originally posted by wiggy63 I've never played with carbon, too much lack of touch for me.

What this guy said!

Do you remember Chinese mark of the blade, also this week what pips, on bh or fh?

Edited by ZoranV - 17 February 2010 at 10:17

wrb = hollow handle. stiga call it "wrb technology" to make it sound more technical and bait customers.

yes, i recommend you try it. i also like a blade with nice hitting power but i went over the top with it in the past (primorac carbon ).

schlager precision is the result of my long quest to find a blade that has a nice solid feel but isn't a speed demon.

not used classic primorac very much but i would say schlager inspire has some more punch to it. a little less balanced but stiffer and with a little more hitting power.

be careful with the korbel, make sure you try it out before buying.

i played with it for about 2 weeks and not sure why but i didn't like it that much. i find it has less control than a lot of people think and requires pretty good technique on everything other than hitting. the simple forehand and backhand counter seemed fine with it but most of the other shots were off somehow.

my friend who has played with korbel for quite a few years is changing to primorac off- because it's so much easier to use for him.

but that's just my opinion, you should try it out for yourself.


Edited by Izraphel - 18 February 2010 at 17:16

And average Korbel is heavy! Specially the better ones (first edition)...

Edited by ZoranV - 19 February 2010 at 13:13

Butterfly Primorac: limba-limba-ayous-limba-limba
Butterfly Pter Korbel: limba-limba-ayous-limba-limba
Butterfly Zhang Yining: limba-limba-ayous-limba-limba

but they are prity different...and the waight, due to wood what is not what is used to be, is much out of nominal range...

I also found my blade continues with detaching...If I hold handle with one hand and press rubber with finger of other hand, strong, but not too strong, like when you check rubber hardness, top of handle detaches from blade, for 1mm. As I remember it wasn't like this few months ago. Also I expected from hard blade to not be so  elastic, at least my other two blades aren't. I wonder how it affects playing, because similar probably happens when hitting fast ball?

Originally posted by garwor I finally found an extra light combo, Donic opticon rs and 2x Donic coppa jo silver. Very light. People say it's up to rubbers. I think I'll give them a try. Or maybe only one, to see is it good.

Edited by ZoranV - 24 February 2010 at 12:08

do you guys know that it is possible to converse through pm? btw: does davor know that you're talking behind his back?

Really annoying, I wrote long post here, but on submit, git message:

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It's not first time, and lot of posts are lost in last few months. I know it will work if I wrote again, but I'm just tired to write it again.

I play with Qui Zhong Hui, my first carbon blade for 2 months, so here are some experiences and comparisons with wood blades...
First of all, ugly small FL handle. Although I have small hand, handle doesn't suit.  I have feeling that I use only smallest finger to hold it.
It's not too fast, not soft, and not too hard, like a solid mix. Not head heavy, pretty opposite, often I have feeling I play with wrist instead of arm, which is not so good. But it's light and easy for maneuvring. Carbon gives this blade ability to easy go through incoming loops, with hit or reloop of the bounce, also allows me to play some loops on loop from distance, which I couldn't do with my old wood blades (but I'm generaly very bad with this). All three things mentioned are easier with this blade than with wood blades. Not too precise, my favourite flat hits are less precise than with wood blades. Nothing special for block, but better than Kong Linghui euro. Good for controlled looping, but I'd say not for power looping, probably because of balance. Good sweet spot, finally I dont care which part of bat I use for shot which was annoying me a lot with wood blades. I think I choose wrong fh rubber bryce fx which has very low throw, and although it offers goos spin when attacking push, often loops on low long blocks can finish into net. Although not bad for flat kills.
I thin this blade would be good with medium throw angle rubber, also I feel that with sriver fx glued, it has some kind of too much dwell time, you have to sink ball into sponge. maybe with slightly harer rubber it will be pretty good.

Smart move! Haha .

Realize that it will possibly take you years to adapt to your blade. Not a few precious hours.  In that, even though you felt you played better, in which you visibly did, beware of  what I call, "Not my racket" syndrome.

That Perkosan that you used was something you had not used in a while, with a different feel and different scope of performance.  It's not an uncommon train of thoughts from players who try other player's bats to say. "Hey! this setup is great! I'm going to buy it."

It feels and plays great, or different, because of that "It's not my racket" mentality. It feels nice now, but then you get it, play with it, and it plays like sh!t.   But it is the test of time that will prove you wrong or right. As you've probably well learned by now. Hopefully you can stay away from the gluing, the overpriced rubbers, and EJing.

Here's to a new future?

Originally posted by AznTTprodigy Smart move! Haha . Realize that it will possibly take you years to adapt to your blade. Not a few precious hours.  In that, even though you felt you played better, in which you visibly did, beware of  what I call, "Not my racket" syndrome. That Perkosan that you used was something you had not used in a while, with a different feel and different scope of performance.  It's not an uncommon train of thoughts from players who try other player's bats to say. "Hey! this setup is great! I'm going to buy it." It feels and plays great, or different, because of that "It's not my racket" mentality. It feels nice now, but then you get it, play with it, and it plays like sh!t.   But it is the test of time that will prove you wrong or right.

Yeah what is the official name of that syndrome?  Everyone else's setup always feels better, loops better, performs better....  Until you go and buy it yourself and use it for a few weeks.

Originally posted by garwor I'm thinking of buying new blade, my current one Kreanga Powerspin has bad quality plies, after every detaching of rubber, pieces of wood are on it. Generally I like my blade speed, I like hard feel, which allows for more direct shots, flat kills. I dont like small sweet spot, also it's quite heavy, 91-94 gr depending of source info, with constantly glued rubbers it's maybe too heavy. Also, I have to play with soft rubbers, otherwise I cant reloop easily. I heard that carbon blades have bigger sweet spot, with good control. According to btty, this blade have quite same speed like timo boll spirit, carbon blade which has better control, and it's slightly lighter, so I'm thinking of it. But, it should be blade for professional players, which means lot of power, and maybe less control? I also heard that carbon blades are stiff, although tbs is declared like medium hardness. Is it of same hardness like Primorac Classic off-. I'd expect more hardness from pro blade. What are advantages and disadvantages of carbon blades, comparing to wood blades? For example TBS vs Petr Korbel blade (which I also think of)?

Originally posted by wingspan Yeah what is the official name of that syndrome?  Everyone else's setup always feels better, loops better, performs better....  Until you go and buy it yourself and use it for a few weeks.

He he, it's actually opposite in my case, almost neither one setup I try is good for me, because I know exactly what I want. One seller gives me regularly blades to try, but nothing is good enough. I know my playing style, and what shoots I need and use, and I'm estimating equipment according to that.